So a Pack Cat is a little paddle cat. What is the frame like?
The frame is made of tubular steel, and it is minimal to allow for the boat to be back packed around. The steel frame is powder coated, and the straps wrap around the tubes. there is a seat frame and a foot frame, sometimes called a toe bar. The tubes must be inflated tightly because the tubes provide the stiffness that is necessary for performance. Attached to the top of the seat is a mesh that you sit on. there is a pillow that wraps around your hips for low back support, and to help keep the passenger form slipping off of the seat. This boat is by far the most comfortable personal inflatable water craft. Jim Taxton, Executive Director of the Professional Paddle Sports Association (formerly National Canoe Liveries and Outfitters) purchased one of these last year. He has been paddling with one that he has been borrowing for two years, and he really likes it. Because it fits in the trunk, and one person can put it in the water.
What are the fasteners made of that wrap aroundthe tubes to hold it together?
The straps are made of 800 LB busts strength 1 inch polypropylene webbing. and they are on loops that attach at the bottom of the frame. the straps go around the tubes to cam buckles at the top of the frame. Extra straps are provided with every boat.
What do the passengers sit in or on?
Pack cats are not really designed for passengers. The two person has room for two paddlers. However it is easy to construct a device that will allow for passengers in quiet water. That would be a plywood deck that straps to the grommet strips on the top of the tubes. After the deck is in place a lawn chair can be strapped to the deck. In this way a passenger can be taken on board.
The information says that there are two frames? What is the difference?
There is a seat frame and foot frame or toe bar.
Are Pack cats pushed around by the wind, like an aluminum canoe is?
We have been on many river trips where there were canoes and Pack Cats in the wind. the Pack Cats always did better than the canoes. They have less area exposed to the wind, and it is much easier to keep them pointed into the wind and moving with the river. However when the wind is not blowing, a canoe can usually outdistance a Pack Cat. I have however overtaken both solo and tandem canoes during a down river race when I was paddling a Two man Pack Cat solo, and I do not get a lot of paddling practice in because this business keeps me occupied otherwise.
So if I want to purchase one of your Pack Cats, check it out & don't like it, can I return it?
Yes you may, but I would rather you had what you wanted in the first place. We have a video about One man pack cats, including safety, and how it works on low water class 4 plus. I also have some clips on surfing a one man and Inflatable Kayaks in the same hole, however, these are not at this time production videos.
How much will the Pack Cat instructional video cost me if I decide I don't like it?
It would cost 10 dollars with shipping and can be returned for a refund or the price will be taken off of the purchase price of a boat.
Which type of boat should I get, a Cataraft or Self Bailer?
Here are some main considerations that should be made when deciding if a cataraft or a self bailing raft is the right boat for you.
1 Price:
Cats are usually less expensive even with the framing included
2 rigging:
Cats are harder to rig initially, but are easy to clean at the end of the trip. The frame and rigging plays a much more important role in a cat. If you have a crappy frame on a cat you have a crappy boat. many times SB rafts have no frames. Just blow them up, throw some paddles in the back of the truck, and go. This makes them a real hit among those operations that rent boats. Cats require some kind of base line knowledge, and imparting that to a novice customer can be a hassle during busy times.
3 Passenger to guide ratio:
SB rafts can almost always generate more money for the outfitter than a cat. Cats can go places where SB rafts have a hard time, but outfitters are reluctant to get their customers in to that class of whitewater in many cases. There are some who feel otherwise here in Colorado, and I can get their phone numbers if you wish to talk to them about it. Many outfitters in the Durango area who operate on the Upper Animas class 4+ use our cat boats. The biggest guide to passenger ratio for a cat up there is 6 to 1, and that boat is fairly large, and would not make it down on the last weekend of the season below 750 cfs.
The reason why cats can do a higher class of water is the amount of surface area that a cat presents to the river. The less surface area that is presented to a reversal, the less effect that reversal has on the boat.
Cat boats can easily be loaded top heavy. We suggest that if you are carrying very large gear loads to put much of the gear load up high in a shallow basket or on a deck board on the front, and drop the load down in the back to keep the overall center of gravity low. The deck board is a great place for passengers, and on milder stretches they can mount their lawn chairs on top. We have used plywood decks for years this way. The people on the front off set the gear load in the back that is low to the water. Passangers can easily "high side", and actually find cats a drier ride than conventional rafts. What happens when the boat hits a big reversal is that the majority of the wave is taken below the deck. Add to this the momentum that you already have from going down stream, and when the back of the boat hits the reversal, the momentum and center of gravity (having half of the load already down stream from the reversal) help to push you over the top. Cats as a result are labeled with a less thrilling ride, yet can run higher class of whitewater and get into more diverse river systems.
If you are looking to get a cat, please remember that it is only as good as it's frame. Use designs that have been proven. Pick frame builders who know what is going on. If you are still interested, write for a list of frame builders, and I will send it to you.
Which is safer, single tube design with baffles, or double tube design with tubes side by side?
I think that there is a safety advantage of the single tube design. Here is why. When we have something real nasty in the river in class 4 or 5, It could put a hole in both tubes on a double tube design. I even know of one instance where all four tubes were lost at the same time. The single tube design will only loose one half. Actually when properly inflated, the cone shaped baffle in out cat tubes, moves part way into the deflated section, and it is only like loosing a third of a tube, even though the rest of the tub is rather soggy, it can be safely rowed to shore.
There is a story about two customers who were boating the Crystal River in Colorado. They both had Daddy Cats. The first one was surfing in a reversal on purpose and having fun. It must have been a good hole, because his buddy did not see him in there, and came down right on top of him. The motor mount on the back put a good size hole in the top of the first Cat. It deflated very fast, and he had to make it out to shore in Class 4 whitewater. He informed me that he had no problem doing this, but I am sure that his skills were challenged at this point.
The amount of surface area on the water also has an effect on the ability of a Cat to punch through a reversal. Even the guys at AIRE will agree, and they put it in their brochure. AIRE calls it the awesome hole punching power of the single tube design. There is simply less surface area for the water to act upon, so the boat punches through easier.
PVC inflatable boats are now available with or without bladders. Could you explain the difference. What are the advantages and disadvantages?
Many manufacturers are using unsupported fabrics as a bladder inside of a coated fabric. There are some advantages to this and some disadvantages.
Advantages include: There is one more layer of material to rupture, and this may add a slight amount of security to the owner. The outer shell does not have to be air holding, and can have a heavier substrate, or a lighter substrate, or a cheaper substrate. It cost money to get fabric to hold air. In some instances a new bladder can be added and a rip sewn up to make a repair, if an owner or boatman does not know how to repair with glue or hot air welding.
Disadvantages include: The use of a zipper so that the bladder can be installed. Zippers are prone to failure over time. The accumulation of mud and moisture between the shell and the bladder. This causes the boat to become heavier, even after it is heavier to begin with. If a rip does cause the bladder to fail the bladder and the shell have to be repaired. This results in twice as much repair work. There is some loss of coating adhesion when using heavier base fabrics. This means that seams may be prone to failure, even though the rip strength of the base fabric is high.
The fabrics we use at Jacks Plastic Welding are of two weights. Our 35 oz per square yard fabric has heavy weave, with good coating adhesion, air retention, and excellent tensile strength. we use this material in all of our inflatables. We also use 42 oz fabrics that is installed as double bottoms on our expedition cat tubes. In this way we build a far superior boat by using all of the best properties of these materials to the best advantage.
What are the advantages and disadvantages between highly rockered and straight tube cataraft designs?
Stability, maneuverability, and load capacity are the main issues when it comes to cats. our most maneuverable cat is the flyer cat, because of the rockered style of the tubes. The shape of this boat is excellent for surfing, and playing on the river. In fact Micro cats that are even shorter are very popular in some parts of the country. Our Cutthroat is becoming a popular play style cataraft, and we are building micro cats with lots of rocker for Big Wave Dave's in Spokane Wa for the same reason.
If you only put one set gear load on a cat then it could be designed for the ultimate performance. I have a bias against doing this because it takes from the usefulness of the craft. That is one reason why we have not built more fully rockered tube styles, in our larger models. The styles that we have work well in an all around way. If you are doing serious class 4 plus or 5 rapids, then you will thank yourself for that stability. The ability to blow through a hole that stops and turns the other boats sideways or flips them will be appreciated more than the ability to spin on a dime. This attribute also gives the boat more cargo capacity. If a boat is loaded too lightly, then it will not have the momentum to blow through holes. If the tubes are too big the surface area of the tubes will add to the problem. If the load is too heavy the boat will sink very far into the water, and compromises the ability to turn.
Adding a little rocker to the boat does aid in the ability to spin. There will always be some give and take. For a expedition size load, rocker will work against you. Your boat will be down deeper in the water and will have no more ability to spin because of it. Rocker is OK for day tripping, but I prefer to work a little harder When it is a light load and work a lot less when it is a heavy load. There is a problem at the bottom of Cataract and the San Juan where the river bed is silted in. If a boat sinks too far in the water, then it will drag on the bottom in the low water times, and everyone will have to get out and push.
New Boats for 2001 are the Royal Flush designs. They have a modified rocker shape. This means that there is rocker on the front and back, and a straight section in the middle. We feel that this is a good compromise for a lot of customers. Especialy those who wish to have a good performing boat under a medium gear load. The Royal Flush is estimated to carry about 100 lbs less than the counterpart Daddy 25, or Daddy 28 at 6 inches of draft.
Here is another Idea. If spin and cargo are important, consider a daddy 28 inch diameter. The 28 sits higher in the water, and therefore spins much easier. The load capacity for draft is much higher, but the drawback is price and wind resistance is greater too.
Performance is an issue of give and take. I am sure that our competitors boats are capable craft with the right frames. However some will do better in some instances than others and the other way around depending on the conditions. For these reasons, I lean toward sacrificing the ability to spin for the ability to do more with the boat. It seems obvious to me which issue is more important.
Once again this is personal bias, and it does not have anything to do with the reality of how other boaters enjoy their sport. Keep in mind that I have been a guide on the Grand Canyon, and Cataract, That I have run motor rigs and 22 ft cats with 36 inch diameter tubes (called snouts used at least since 1969 in the Grand Canyon). There lies my bias; to get back to the Grand Canyon, with enough food and beer to do another 21 day trip and still have ice in July, and still have the ability to do a low water trip down the Upper Animas. If you agree with this philosophy, then our boats are the right boats for you. if you do not agree, write to us, so that we can provide the kind of boats that fit your needs.
How long is the glue good for on my raft before I need to reglue the D rings?
The majority of our older boats have not experienced any glue failures. The glue is softened by the plastisizers in the vinyl, by age, and by heat. Humidity also may have an effect on how soon the glue goes bad. Some of our boats have been in the tropics in high humidity for 7 years, without signs of trouble.
If your boat is over 5 years old, we recommend taking a little extra adhesive with you, and keep checking those D rings especially on hot days. Do not be afraid to ask us about the warranty that may result from the our use of improper glue mix ratios. Write to us if you have a problem.
Please note: All boats built in 1999 and later, have all the D rings RF welded in place. Therefore the new boats from JPW are not prone to this problem. We have never built a boat where any glue was responsible for maintaining the air chamber integrity. If you are running an older boat, please take extra straps in case you need to strap directly around the tubes for extra strength. This technique can elliminate the need for D rings.
I want a Cat boat that is light weight for Class 4 plus white water, and one that doesn't get punctured easily. What do you recommend?
Weight is an important factor in the higher class of white water. I will assume that there will be a small gear load, and that there is a very limited number of passengers. If this is the case then our standard Cats are usually very adequate for most customers. However commercial operations require a high passenger to guide ratio, and they have a tendency to load their boats much heavier with passengers than do private individuals. For these reasons, and because they can not afford down time, we recommend installation of double bottoms on commercial rafts. Still there are a few companies that run the Upper Animas that do not use double bottoms on their Cat boats, and some of those tubes have 8 years of use. Keep in mind that the Upper Animas has Rail Road Iron, and fresh rock slides. I recommend taking an extra tube in the party even though there is a double bottom on your boat.
The double bottoms that we do are very tough. They are designed to take extreme point loading (more about that later) and are constructed in such a way to actually limit the tearing of the fabric. In this way when there is a hole, the boat looses air more slowly, and can be maneuvered to shore. I would also like to point out that there is nothing that will sustain abrasion from coral reefs. If you intend to drive or sail your inflatable across coral reefs, please install a double bottom. Let the bottom take the abuse. It can always be recoated with urethane at a later date.
Urethane Coatings
Flexane and Flex tough are two urethane coatings that can be used to both seal and to add material and toughness to the bottom of Cat tubes. This Urethane based material is very abrasion resistant, and in many cases it can be thick enough to offset the effects of point loading that would put a hole in a boat. By the time the boat has ridden over the sharp point, the urethane coating has not been cut through. Please be aware that application of solvent based urethanes is NOT USER FRIENDLY. Know what you are dealing with, and the hazards associated with the use of these chemicals
Point Loading
This is a term that we use to describe what happens to PVC cat tubes when there is a tear in the fabric. The theory of point loading is important, because it is a bigger problem on cat tubes than on conventional rafts, because Cat tubes ride lower in the water. Basically Point loading is when a boat rides sideways over a sharp point, and half of the entire Cat boat's weight is placed on that one point. If it is a sharp enough point, and there is enough weight on the tubes, then there will be a hole in the boat as a result of this incident. The point load is greater as the tube is lifted higher and higher out of the water until half of the weight of the tube is on that one point. That is why most holes are within 6 inches of the bottom of the boat. Of course the velocity of the river and the sharpness of the rocks have a lot to do with this happening. For instance. A very low water trip would cause the boat to stop and not ride over the point. There is not enough momentum to force the tubes over the point. There seems to be more rips in tubes in the upper Animas in medium flows than high or low flows, because the boat still has momentum, and the rocks are getting exposed. Keep in mind that momentum is weight and speed, so if you are doing a low water trip with lots of gear, your chances of riding up on top of a sharp rock are greatly increased because of the gear load. It is also important to keep in mind what sort of rocks that you will be encountering. The Grand Canyon for instance has rapids that are formed by sedimentary rocks that have moved down the side canyons to stop up the main channel. These rocks are worn smooth by the time they reach the river. Quartzite inside the Granite that is near shore is a much more immediate hazard, and parking a boat is the only place that I have ever put a hole in a boat in 45 grand trips. This happened three times. One in Hypalon, one in Neoprene, and one in PVC.Conversely, the rocks in the Piedra river have not been the stream long enough to get smooth, and care should be taken to keep the load as light as possible. This is a good reason to know a little about the geology of a region before attempting a descent.
The vast majority of Cat tubes that we produce are made without double bottoms. We see very few of these come back for repairs. Double bottom fabric is 42 oz fabric with a very heavy denier They add about 60% more weight to a set of tubes, and they are glued on a bias. This bias gluing aligns the fabrics so that there is 50 % more rip strength. A rip is hard to continue through a bias in a fabric. This option is rather expensive, and careful consideration should be given to weight, and cost. Remember transportability is also compromised by using a double bottom.
How do I replace a Halkey Roberts boat valve?
Haley Robbers boat valves are made in two parts. 1, the nut on the inside of the boat, and 2, the valve itself that screws into the nut. It is an easy procedure to change the valves. At Jack's Plastic Welding, we install valves fairly tight. and on our larger boats we place a reinforcing patch on the fabric inside. We put the valve in tightly because the material will take a set, or be permanently deformed by the ridges that are molded in the valve flange where it compresses the fabric. The valve is hard to break loose at first. after they are loose they are easily turned by hand or by a pair of pliers.
Procedure:
With the tube flat, place your knees on both sides of the valve. This puts pressure on the material, and forces the bottom of the nut to the ground. Next take a pair of channel locks that are large enough to grab the outer circumference of the valve flange on the outside and gently break loose the valve form the nut, turning it counter clockwise (right handed thread). Be sure that the valve popet on the inside of the valve is closed. Also be sure that you take care not to damage the material. After the valve is broken loose, take your channel locks and use the valve cap to unscrew it the rest of the way. If the valve cap is missing simply continue using the outside of the valve flange until you can unscrew it by hand.
After the valve is out, check the nut to be sure that it is not cracked. If not simply screw a new valve in. Valves must be identical. If the valve flange has three holes in it, (for the cap string) you must use a valve with three holes in it, and you can not use a short valve in a long valve nut. YOU NEED NOT TIGHTEN IT TOO TIGHT. the material is already set with the previous valve, and it does not need to be cranked down. 7 ft lbs of torque is what is recommended, and that is a light touch. Be careful when starting the new valve in to the nut that the valve and nut are not cross threaded.
Valve tools are available made of PVC pipe, and are inexpensive. I still recommend that the valve be broken loose with a pair of channel locks. Expensive valve tools can be purchased through us. They fit on a 1/2 inch drive ratchet and they cost about $35.00 each. There are different tools for different boat valves. Therefore please know if the valve is a Long valve, (the popet valve stem does not stick up above the valve flange) a short valve old style with one string hole, or a short new style with three string holes in the valve flange. Remember valve styles are not interchangeable.
Before replacing the valve, use a Q tip soaked in rubbing alcohol to remove any dirt that may be holding the valve open on the seal. Always try to roll boats up on a tarp or deck boards. This will eliminate the possibility of mud and sand entering the valve.
For more information write me at info@jpwinc.com.
How do I replace a Halkey Rovers Valve?
Haley Robbers boat valves are made in two parts. 1 the nut on the inside of the boat, and 2 the valve itself that screws into the nut. It is an easy procedure to change the valves. At Jack's Plastic Welding, we install valves fairly tight. and on our larger boats we place a reinforcing patch on the fabric inside. We put the valve in tightly because the material will take a set, or be permanently deformed by the ridges that are molded in the valve flange where it compresses the fabric. The valve is hard to break loose at first. after they are loose they are easily turned by hand or by a pair of pliers.
Procedure:
With the tube flat, place your knees on both sides of the valve. This puts pressure on the material, and forces the bottom of the nut to the ground. Next take a pair of channel locks that are large enough to grab the outer circumference of the valve flange on the outside and gently break loose the valve form the nut, turning it counter clockwise (right handed thread). Be sure that the valve popet on the inside of the valve is closed. Also be sure that you take care not to damage the material. After the valve is broken loose, take your channel locks and use the valve cap to unscrew it the rest of the way. If the valve cap is missing simply continue using the outside of the valve flange until you can unscrew it by hand.
After the valve is out, check the nut to be sure that it is not cracked. If not simply screw a new valve in. Valves must be identical. If the valve flange has three holes in it, (for the cap string) you must use a valve with three holes in it, and you can not use a short valve in a long valve nut. YOU NEED NOT TIGHTEN IT TOO TIGHT. the material is already set with the previous valve, and it does not need to be cranked down. 7 ft lbs of torque is what is recommended, and that is a light touch. Be careful when starting the new valve in to the nut that the valve and nut are not cross threaded.
Valve tools are available made of PVC pipe, and are inexpensive. I still recommend that the valve be broken loose with a pair of channel locks. Expensive valve tools can be purchased through us. They fit on a 1/2 inch drive ratchet and they cost about $35.00 each. There are different tools for different boat valves. Therefore please know if the valve is a Long valve, (the popet valve stem does not stick up above the valve flange) a short valve old style with one string hole, or a short new style with three string holes in the valve flange. Remember valve styles are not interchangeable.
Before replacing the valve, use a Q tip soaked in rubbing alcohol to remove any dirt that may be holding the valve open on the seal. Always try to roll boats up on a tarp or deck boards. This will eliminate the possibility of mud and sand entering the valve.
For more information write me at info@jpwinc.com.
Why do we see some Cat boats rigged with the oars forward on the craft?
I have often pondered this myself. There is some benefit to be gained by every change and some disadvantage. I am assuming that the benefit to this style is to get the weight and the power of the oars through a reversal (hole) first. In this way it is possible to have the weight and the power down stream of the reversal where it can be used more effectively. The Down side to this style is that you are dragging your load behind you instead of following the load down the river. In Idaho they use the forward oar position a lot, doing day trips on class 5 rivers. In my opinion as the gear load gets larger the benefit of this technique diminishes till it is a disadvantage. Definitely not a style I would use on a multi day trip. The advantage of having the oars mounted in the center or rear of center, give the ability to follow the load down the river, to pull back upstream, and aid in maneuverability by slowing the boat down in relation to the current. An oarsman can always turn the boat around and "Powell" down stream, or pull down stream across big waves to make his moves. This is a classic Grand Canyon big water move. This move gets the boat into the slower water at the edge of the rapid, and can really help a boatman avoid big holes in the middle of high volume rivers.
Should I use open oar locks or pins and clips?
I am like to recommend open oar locks. Here are the Benefits. With open oar locks a boatman can feel the current. By keeping his oars in the water the boat will track better. Sometimes all it takes to maneuver is a twist of the wrist. There is more power in a properly placed stroke. The entry and exit of the blade can be smoother, and there is less wind resistance when the blade is feathered when out of the water. The skill of boating is enhanced by open oar locks. The disadvantage is there is a possibility that the boatman can miss a stroke, and end up in the bilge or in the river (with a Cat). It is imperative that you get a feel for where the oars are, and keep checking their position in the water. There is virtually no safety advantage over either system. Since pins and clips usually use a oar stirrup, the hazard of getting an oar handle in the face is about the same with either system.
Here is what Jon C Comini wrote to me about why he uses pins and clips.
"I have been rowing for over twenty years and am a late convert to pins & clips for a couple of reasons. First, we do a lot of high flow, technical runs in the winter and I am assured of positive blade placement with each stroke. Secondly, I have two friends who have been impaled by oarlocks. One was gored through his upper arm (on the Cal Salmon) and the other was caught by the calf (and was hung there for some time) as he was thrown from his raft in Hells Canyon on the Snake. In each case the trauma was severe and major medical attention was required. Rescue was difficult in both cases and both victims had long and painful recoveries. Both now use pins and clips.
"I know that the P&C's have their drawbacks but like anything else, overcoming them is a matter of continued practice. It dangerous enough out there without getting stabbed by your own boat.
"Have been using Cataract composite shafts for several years now and have seen them bend more than I would have suspected was possible but as of yet we've not had one break. We have bent the Carlisle blades (heavy duty outfitters with 8" blades) but have yet to lose an oarshaft (knock on composite).
"One other thing that I've noticed especially with intermediate boaters is a real fascination with heavy oar tethers. We use a light twine that will easily break if the oar begins to helicopter."
A note from Jack:
I have not heard of this kind of injury before. I have heard about other injuries with oars and I have been injuried by oars. There is plenty of potential for injury as people like Jon push the sport to its limits. Please be careful out there, and do not take the Class 5 rivers lightly. Ron Griffith's story hit me the hardest.
Ron Griffith of Griffith Expeditions had a oar shoved through his thigh down on the Bio Bio. The oar had a Clip on it. As the story goes they cut the oar in half with a saw on a Swiss army knife, and they had to convince the doctor to take an x ray because he did not understand that the clip was inside his leg. The Clip was wrapped around his femoral artery.
There is good and bad in any rowing style. I think that it is simply a matter of choice. I have missed some vital strokes because of improper oar placement. I just like the feel of open oar locks better.
When rowing across the current in shallow water always watch the down stream oar. If it hits a rock it could come up and hit you in the face. Row with the down stream oar handle away from your body, and use the upstream oar for maneuvering as much as possible.
Why is welding better for inflatable manufacture than gluing?
Welding is a better process because it last indefinitely. Glued parts are subject to the glue getting “tired” and letting go. The process of welding, fuses two like coated materials together, and there is no adhesive interface. A welded lap seam is stronger in a shear direction than the base fabric. A glued lap seam is stronger in that direction too until the glue gets “tired” and will let go.
What makes the glue let go?
Plasticizer migration is what is responsible for adhesive bonds losing their strength over time. The plasticizer is the same thing in the coating that keeps the UV radiation from destroying your boat. This is one reason why PVC boats last so long under UV, but also the reason why the glue can let go after a number of years. This migration process is accelerated with heat and Humidity. So a glued boat left in a closet near the beach in the Mexican tropics may lose it’s glued parts in 1 year, and likewise if you store your boat in the attic of your house in Houston TX. However if your glued raft lives in Alaska, you may never have a problem if it never gets hot. Over 30 years in business we have experienced all these things. Why do welded boats last longer? They do not come apart from glue failure. We replace a lot of glued parts, and we see all kinds of conditions boats are exposed to. Glue failure happens on Hypalon boats as well, it just takes a little longer.
Inflatable Boat Fabric Properties
Contrary to some literature that is out there, plastic coated fabrics are not weaker nor do they leak more than other coated fabrics. In many cases they are superior in air retention. We have considerable discussion about coated fabrics in our web site about materials. This is a short version of the idea of inflatable fabrics.
All coated fabrics are plastic. Some are simply Thermo Plastic (PVC and Urethane), and some are Thermo Set Plastics (Hypalon, and Neopreme). It is the fabric inside that adds the strength to the coated fabric, and even this is plastic. Polyester (the base fabric that we use) is a Thermo set plastic that does not stretch very much, and Nylon, which is a choice of most neoprene coated fabrics is a thermo plastic that stretches more. Thermo set plastic coated fabrics are Hypalon and Neoprene.
Thermo set plastics have a dry abrasion quality that makes them wear better when dry. A good example of this is Neoprene belting for the mining industry. In the water they are at a disadvantage because these materials grab on rocks and are prone to wear faster because they are not as slick in the water. Thermo plastic coated fabrics are weldable because the coatings can be melted and fused together. This means that heat of friction can also melt the coatings, and the consumer needs to be aware of this. However, in a water environment, heat of friction is not an issue, because water is a lubricant for Thermo Plastic coated fabrics, and they actually wear better in the water because of this. Please read more about treating your inflatable boat well.
The Fabric Inside
The fabric inside the plastic has a lot to do with the strength and performance and longevity you get out of your inflatable boat. Nylon Fabric stretches more, and has a little higher tensile strength. Polyester stretches less, and therefore needs less air pressure behind it to keep the boat stiff. Tensile strength is also determined by how strong the fabric base is. Therefore, a polyester fabric may actually have a stronger tensile strength than a nylon base fabric. Nylon will absorb water, and this can contribute to delamination when mildew forms inside between the coating layers. Polyester does not absorb water and mildew is not a problem.
We use polyester base fabrics.
Coating technology has come a long way since we started this business 35 years ago. Most of the thermo plastics have better adhesion to the base fabric than do thermo set plastic coatings. New processes have been implemented that allow for a solution coating that completely saturates and coats the base fabric before a plastic coating is melted into place. These types of fabrics provide great air retention and coating adhesion. As a result there are fewer problems associated with air loss and delamination of the coating form the base fabric.
The Welding Process
There are two processes that are used today for welding thermoplastic coated materials, Radio Frequency Welding (see the machine), and Hot Air Welding (welding a tape on a part). Both of these processes generate heat to fuse the materials together. both of these processes use pressure to force the materials to fuse. Therefore it is heat and pressure that make thermoplastic welding possible. Plastics do not melt at the same temperatures. Therefore it is difficult to fuse dissimilar materials together. It can be done with glue.
Radio frequency welding uses a press that applies pressure to a large surface area. The press has a table that the material is placed on. Dies are used to direct the welding process. When the press comes together, Radio waves are passed through the small area between the die and the table where the weld takes place. These Radio waves heat the material and the combination of heat and pressure cause the weld to take the shape of the die. RF welding is fast. Our RF welder operates at a frequency of around 29 mega hz, and that is a short wave frequency, for you ham radio fanatics.
Hot air welding uses hot air to heat the coating on the fabric where it is to be bonded together. A Nozzle is situated between two rollers that pull the material through the machine. As the material is pulled through the machine, hot air is applied to the surfaces to be fused together. Pressure from the rollers and heat form the hot air cause the plastic to fuse as the plastic cools. With the material moving through a machine like this, different shapes can be made. Patterns can then be put together to form the shape of an inflatable boat. This is also a fast process. This process is not subject to the intricacies of radio frequency. However the operator must know a whole different set of rules to make it work.
The Gluing Process
Gluing processes consist of preparation, application and bonding of the fabrics together. The quality of a glued joint is determined by how hard the material is to prepare, how well it is prepared, and environmental factors that may affect the adhesive. Parts can be stockpiled at many different stages of production. I believe that this is how efficiency is obtained in this process. There is plenty of room for human error, both in perpetration of the fabric, and application of the adhesive. We have to glue some parts on no matter what, and we try to use the best glue, and the best techniques. to learn more read this link..
Which is better?
It is obvious that there is less chance for human error with a welded part. At Jack’s Plastic Welding, we believe in both processes. However, we do not glue any air holding parts of any Inflatable boat, and as of 1997, all D ring patches are RF welded. If there is a glue failure, it will not be associated with the loss of an air chamber, and resultant loss of functionality. Not all parts can be welded and still look good and be functional. We have had virtually no warranty problems associated with glue failures in the 10 year warranty time period, and virtually no warranty problems associated with weld failures, until a boat is virtually destroyed by the sun. If you keep your boat covered, they will last at least 20 years.
Because welding actually matches and bonds coated surfaces together in a way that adhesives can not (no adhesive interface to soften over time), it is a much more reliable method for constructing inflatable boats. Properties and strength of the original materials can be maintained, and not compromised by the presence of an adhesive. We are constantly searching for methods to eliminate adhesives in our products, because of the reliability of welding, and of cost savings.
* Hypalon is a registered trademark of the Dupont Corporation.
How much weight can the seat support?
300lbs or more
How much weight can the floors support? There are a couple of mentions about being able to stand.
It is definitely strong enough to stand on. 300-LB people will not break them.
What are the approximate height levels at which one sits on/in these two boats?
Cutthroat is approximately 2-3 inches below the top of the tubes because the mesh deflects
What's the center of gravity for both boats?
Depends on how high you load gear, but it is never so bad that it is a problem. This is because it is so easy to put heavy gear between the tubes. Naturally the heavier stuff goes to the bottom.
How would you describe the handing characteristics between the one and two person models?
One person will spin and maneuver easier than the two-person model. That of course has some to do with the gear load. In the two-person model it is possible to load the boat with more gear and people towards the ends. This increases the swing weight and makes the boat less maneuverable due to the concept of conservation of angular momentum. More draft on a cataraft also makes them track very well, and as a result makes them harder to spin. On the otherhand, there is never a weight load as a result of water in the boat being carried through a rapid (as there is in a self-bailer) and so the boat is more maneuverable where you need it, namely the middle of the rapids.
I saw a nice picture of a red Cutthroat in the March/April issue of Paddler magazine. Is this a new color option?
Some time around Mid Summer of 2001 our color choices for all boats will be Grey, Blue, and Red, and all of these colors will be 35 oz fabric. The 35 oz fabric has 30% more rip strength, and we will be able to offer three colors of all of our boats. Aproximately 50% of our boats will be blue, 25% red, and 25% grey.
If I purchased a 2 person Cutthroat, which size of your gear bags would be most suitable as accessories?
Medium outfitter bags. Of course you will get a boat bag that you can use as a gear bag too.
I get the feeling that one sits much closer to the water line in the Cutthroat, but I'm not sure just how much. Maybe 16'' or so? I'm used to sitting about 2 feet or so off the bottom in our rafts. There is a page on your site that provides frame assembly.
Please go to the photo gallery in our web site, scroll down through the Cutthroat picture links untill you get to the place where the assembly drawing is. There is also a link to the written instructions.
In this page you raise a caution about "frame deflection" and the possibility of it occurring during normal use. How much of a concern might this be with the weight of a large body (me) on the 2-person model?
We addressed this problem with the addition of the spreader bars as an addition to the frame for the 2001 season. It is not a big issue unless you are hauling out a moose or something like that. Still it is a good idea to place the strap close to the gear or people load so frame deflection does not cause any problem. Extra Spreader Bars are available if needed. They add weight to the boat, but they also add strength.
What is the weight for frames that come on the Cutthroat 2?
35 lb. for the frame by itself.
Can the cutthroat use larger tubes, or come with a wider frame?
We used 19 inch diameter tubes on the cutthroat 1 frame. The only change we made was to use 7 1/2 ft oars. If you want to purchase a "SUPER SIZED CUTTHROAT" There would be a production delay because this is not a standard item. It would also cost $70.00 extra.
To make the frame wider, one could cut all the cross members and then sleeve these cross members with Top Fence Rail Tubing. It is 1 3/8 OD and has a .065 wall thickness. If this is done we must know what the new width at the bottom of the frame is so we can make new seat and floor pieces. We would wish to correspond with anyone considering doing this before they cut. If the frame is made larger in this fashion, it may be advisable to purchase extra spreader bars that can be used as a brace between the top spreader bar, and the bottom extension tubes. The wider the frame, and the larger the tubes, the more weight that can be phisically placed in the boat. With this system of cross bars, and sleeved parts, there is unlimited capacity to experiment. We welcome this experimentation. We also question the validity of the experimentation. After I have run a Cutthroat for a number of trips, the issue of stability is not as important as I once thought it was. Gear capacity, on the other hand, may be a larger issue.
Please note in our Photo Gallery there is a picture of a 2 person frame on a set of 13 ft 19 inch diameter tubes. The 13 ft tubes are 1 ft shorter than normal, and are 3 inches larger in diameter than usual. In this boat there is a 120 qt cooler full of Ice, 12 gal of water, a porta potty, a food box (16 x 12 x 18 inches deep) large pump, repair kit, two paco pads, and an ice cream maker (hand crank not electric, we did not have room for the car battery). If that is not enough room, you may wish to make the boat wider.
I am having difficulty keeping the oars from hitting my knees. Any Suggestions?
Yes I have many. First of all I find it most comfortable and usefull if there is no floor directly below my feet. I like to have a floor stick out from unter the seat in the cockpit area about 10 inches. However, it is more comfortable to be able to have the heals of your feet below the level of the mesh floor. I also find it most convenient for the lower spreader bar or the front cross bar used as a foot brace. If the balls of your feet are on the this bar, then the heals of your feet will be below the mesh floor. This will allow you to be able to straighten out your legs, and get your knees down and out of the way of the oar handles. It is also much easier on the back (especially when using the back rest pilow) when the heals are in this low position.
Can I take my cutthroat in the box to the put in and rig it there?
You could do that, but you are going to end up cursing yourself for not experimenting with it the night before.
Almost without exception, those customers who have had a dealer set up the frame for them before using it have changed the setup. The sales personell may or may not have set up the frame before, and may or may not have used one. Most likely they have not. Therefore with all the different setups that can be used to suit different individuals, it would not be a good idea to let someone else set it up for you. I serioulsy recomend that the frame be set up before a trip on the front lawn so you can get a good visual idea of load balance, people balance, and where the oars should be in relation to the seat. Do this before you shove off into the water. If the boat is a bit back or front heavy you will be able to adjust the next day or on the next trip.
How important is load balance on this little boat?
Load ballance is very important. If you are taking no cargo, I recomend that the person or the center of gravity be slightly forward of center. Many people prefer to row from the front. I actually prefer to row from the back. However load balance is much more important than where you are rowing from. Try to balance the center of the load to the center or slightly forward on the boat. Here is a philosophy that I would like to share. If the center of the load is in front of your face, then maneuvering becomes much easier than if the center is behind your head. People are not accustom to thinking with their awarness behind the head. All of the senses are facing forward, and the brain is hard wired that way. Why make it work so hard.
I have had trouble rigging the mesh floors in place, and when I got them there the first time I did not like it, and it was a struggle getting them back off. Any suggestions?
Yes the floors are tight. they can get even tighter when the bottom spreader bar is put in place. I have asked customers if they think they should be looser, and they say that it was definitely a hassle to put them there, but they would not want them any looser. What I recomend is that customers rig the frame for the first time on the front lawn. just slip the bolts into the holes, and do not put the bottom spreader or the floors on. Next visualize where the gear and people loads are going to be. Then visualize where you want the floors to be. (Remember, if you can get your heals below the level of the floor in the front you will have more oar clearance, and the seat will be very comfortable.) After all that is done, place some dish soap on the extension bars to help the floor slide in place. you may also use straps, and a wiggling motion to pull the floors in to place. Now you may tighten all of the bolts.
How do I get the cap back on before all the air comes out?
This may sound like a silly question, but it comes up every year or so.
The valve should retain air without the cap in place. If it does not, push the colored button on top of the stem down and rotate it 1/4 turn. It will then pop up, and the valve will seal itself. The valves are a popet type valve that rely on spring pressure and air pressure behind the valve to opperate.
When inflating, the air pressure in the pump overcomes the pressure behind the vlave popet, and the spring tension on the popet. If using a shop vacuum to to the main inflation, it is a good idea to open the valve before inflating. Then a quick push in and a 1/4 tune with a finger will set the valve back in place.
Can you tell me what the black fitting is for that came with the warranty envelope? The plastic fitting goes into the valve and with a twist it will lock into place. It requires a 5/8-inch id hose to make a tight fitting. If you purchased a wonder pump (double action pump) the fitting needs to be adapted to work. Simply wrap some black tape around it to make the ribbed fitting larger. Then the fitting will fit into the hose of the double action pump tightly.
The Valves are a poppet type valve. Push down on the colored button in the middle and turn 1/4 turn to deflate or to seal the valve after it has been in the deflation position. The valve does not have to be in the deflation position when pumping the tubes up. Air pressure moves the poppet off of its seat, and the air goes in. Then when the adapter is removed, there is no air loss.
You may realize that some of the answers to the questions below are subjective based on our experience. Your experience may be very different, and we suggest you email us at the info address below if you have different opinions.
The foam in my pad is folding over and getting stuffed up into one end. Is there any way that I can fix this, and how can it be avoided?
If you have a pad that has D rings on the top, congradulations, that pad is probably about 10 years old. The reason why we took the D ring patches off is because they added to the problem. If the Pad can be rolled up half the time with the logo up and half the time with the logo down, then the foam has a difficult time folding over and getting all stuffed up in one end.
If the foam is folded into one end like this it may help to get a little air into the cover, Shake the unfloded end (opposite the valve) hard to the other end of the cover. Next try to work the corners of the folded end of the foam back into the corners of the cover. We use our thumbs to push the corner of the foam toward the corner inside the loose cover. This takes some patience, but is infinitely easier than packaging it up and shipping it to us. Give us a call if there are more questions or problems. 505-334-8748.
My Pad has soaked up a bunch of water. What can I do to fix it?
When a pad is full of water, it will not work very well. Try to avoid floating on a pad that has holes, a bad, or open valve. The easiest way to get the water out is to hang the pad upside down with the valve down for about 2 weeks. Every day you must take a minute to try and squeeze the water out through the valve. When you can not get any more water out, place the pad in a warm area. Place it on the the south side of the house, where the sun can heat up the remaining water, and turn it into vapor. Then suck the air out with a shop vacuum. If you do this for a couple of days when the pad is at its hottest, you will be able to get all of the water out. This does not take as long as you may think, just a couple of minutes a day.
One other way is to cut the bottom of the pad off, dry out the foam, and reseal the end. If you prefer this method, call us, and we will fax you instructions and a drawing of how to put the cover back together with our glue. Our phone is 505-334-8748, and our fax is 505-334-1901.
You may also get information on how to fix wet pads by clicking here.
My paco pad valve is broke, can it be replaced?
We have a patch that can be put over the hole when you cut the existing valve off. Or if it is just the blue and white part, cut that part off, dip the end of the white part in some of our glue, and twist it into the tube. In any case you will need some glue, and some parts. If the blue part is missing, then just call us, and we will send you a new blue part it snaps into place. See a drawing describing valve replacement with a valve patch. See a drawing describing the replacement of the valve assembly in the valve stem.
Have you considered using memory foam for your pads?
Yes we have considered this, but we have actually had some pad foam that was made as if it were memory foam, and we did not like the way it functioned. First off Memory foam is really just slow rebounding foam. In other words it comes back to the original shape, only much slower than standard foam. This does not seem to work well inside of a pad cover because of the time it takes to roll and unroll the pad. We have had some pads returned because they were made with “memory foam” and the customer did not like them. This was purely unintentional. Our foam supplier made a mistake, and we did not catch it.
Why is the corner reinforcement not welded all the way around the corner?
We call this type of corner reinforcement a corner condom. It protects the part of the pad that protrudes out and is harder than the surrounding pad cover. This point causes a wear spot. The corner condom design provides a more flexible point of wear both on that corner, and on the cover where the corner of the foam is. We have found that when we protect this welded corner from wear, the next place to wear is the cover where the actual foam corner is. This flexible patch protects the cover at the corner of the foam more effectively than just a straight patch. The picture below shows a pad rolled up that has a corner condom. note that only 1/2 of the grey patch is welded to the end flange of the pad.
Should I leave my pad unrolled for storage?
It would not hurt to do that. We have noticed that customers who do this have pads with foam that maintains its loft for a lot longer. The big question then becomes…. Is my pad less comfortable if the foam loft is less? My experience is that it is not significant on 2 inch and higher thicknesses, but can be significant on 1 ½ inch thickness. We have limited garage space, and we always roll our pads so they fit better on the shelf. Our 2 inch thick ads over the past 20 years have probably lost ½ inch of loft. However I do not roll them extremely tight. Once we made 1 inch thick pads, and I would caution customers against that. 1 inch does not seem to be enough protection for most customers.
Older pads are shiny, and newer pads are dull. What is the difference?
Our supplier has been trying to get us to turn the pad covers inside out for years. We finally decided he was right. The dull side has more coating, and will last longer in the sun because of it. On the other hand, some of those shiny pads are more than 20 years old.
Can I get corner reinforcements on my old pad?
Yes! If you have not glued the holes our used aqua seal or heaven forbid silicone, then we would like to charge 20.00 and shipping cost. Please call us and arrange for an RA number that you can put on the box when you ship them back.
If you have repaired the corners before, or you want to do it less expensively, you may want to glue a corner condom on yourself. Old raft glue that is about to expire for AIRE, Sotar, Star inflatable, Rocky Mtn, Maravia rafts will work. If you are using the multi-purpose staybond adheasive for hypalon pvc urethane and neopreme, that will work too. We recommend that you make a new corner my sqirting some glue into the hole with a syringe. You do not need to use much. Smush it around, and then glue the flange to only !/2 of the corner patch.
We will send you corner patches free of charge if you want to do this yourself. Please send us an email to either eamil adresses at the bottom of this page, with your Mailing address so we can send them cheaply with a postage stamp.
Paco Pad corner Condoms a do it yourself guide
My boat has a slow leak what is my next step?
First if you find a leak and you want us to fix it on a warranty repair, please use a crayon to mark it. DO NOT USE A PEN, OR A MAGIC MARKER
Second it is important to qualify the leak. What is tolerable to us may not be tolerable to you. How fast does it leak down? To have to pump a boat every day is not tolerable. To pump a boat every 3 days may be tolerable for some.
So here are the potential trouble spots.
Valves
We recommend that boats be rolled up on a tarp, Paco Pads, or on a trailer. If not then dirt could get into the valves and hold them open. Also if the valve cap seal is on crooked, this could cause the valve cap to press on the valve stem, causing a leak.
Check the valve with VERY SOAPY WATER by pouring water into the valve hole. Then put the cap on and see if the cap is the problem.
Dirt on the valve can be cleaned off with rubbing alcohol, and a Q-tip. Also rubbing alcohol can soften the valve gasket, but it will not hurt the fabric, or the main body of the valve. You may try leaving rubbing alcohol on the valve over night to see if minor bubbling stops.
Of course it is always possible the valve is damaged.
Leaks around the D-rings
This can happen during the d ring application process. If you find leaks around the D rings, we will take the tubes back, and inject some vinyl into the troubled area; this should cure the problem. Check close to the D ring itself. If they leak it would be in this area.
Leaks around the end caps
This is rare but is happens when the end cap sealing process passes inspection, and then the tube develops a leak due to working (flexing of the end cap).
A pin hole leak in the fabric.
Thorns, goat heads, pieces of wire, and even thumbtacks can pop small holes in the fabric. When the boat is blown up tight, it may be blowing air out so fast that there are no bubbles. A very soapy bare hand is best for finding this kind of hole, because you can feel it. The symptom of a hole like this is deflation within an 8-hour period of less.
Micro bubbling around the floor
This should not be of great concern. Small bubbles can occur because there is a small amount of air leaking along the main seam of the tube under the double bottom. It would be a good idea to compare the amount of bubbling of the good air holding tube to that of the poor air holding tube.
If something obvious is found, and you believe it is a warranty issue, please call us at 1-800-742-1904, and we will arrange for the return and repair of the inflatable in question. It may save time if you wanted to try and fix it yourself. There are many minor repairs that take much less time than it takes to ship a tube. Call us for methods and suggestions on repair practices. If you call your warranty for a repair will not be voided.
How Do I make boat repairs using the glue that you provide?
Please print out this information and keep it with you in your repair kit.
I've been in the market for a drift boat for some time now. I am an avid steallhead and salmon fisherman. I suppose the reason I wanted a drift boat was for the sake of being able to mount a motor for larger bodies of water, such as the Columbia River. TH
A Daddy Cat will take up to 35 hp with ease. We have used a 25 hp motor on a number of occasions. Weight of the motor gets to be a big factor in many cases.
Four Corners River Sports, Northwest River Supplies, Sid's Sports, Down River Equipment Company, TMS specialties, and Black Bear Pontoons all offer transom options for their frames. We recommend that you go to the DEALER SECTION of our Web site, and find the closest frame manufacturer, and see if that transom and frame design fits your needs. If not one of the others may work well for you. Most offer different packages in a break down version of what you can see in the PHOTO GALLERY under FRAMES.
Get more information about motorized cats on our RELATED INFORMATION page.
I have lost or did not get warranty information with my new boat. Where can I find it?
There was a warranty verification, care and maintenance, and adhesives information in the packet that should be attached to the tubes of your boat. Often that information sheet can get lost when a boat is demoed, or sits in inventory at a dealer.
Do I need an extra layer of material on the top of the tubes to prevente frame wear?
No. Without fail, there are only two reasons why a frame would wear the fabric on the top of the tubes.
There is a burr in the weld that has not been removed, and the frame is not smooth.
Dry straps have been pulled through between the frame and the tube causing the coating to melt off due to heat of friction.
If necessary, 10 minutes before getting to the takeout, tell you passengers who are eager to help, "IF YOU PULL DRY STRAPS ON MY BOAT, I WILL BREAK YOUR FACE". Now that you have their attention, you may tell them that the friction will melt the coating off of the fabric. At the take out you may wish to observe these other precautions...
DERIGGING: BEFORE ARRIVAL AT THE TAKEOUT, INSTRUCT PASSENGERS ON DERIGGING ETIQUITE. Do not allow DRY STRAPS to be pulled through between tubes and frame. A dry strap can product enough friction to melt the coating off of the tubes. Wash as much of the mud and sand off of the tubes as possible. Always roll the boat on a tarp, Paco Pads, or deck boards and tables. Dirt can get into valves and make them malfunction. Scan the area for sharp vegetation like goat head thorns and cactus. Cracks can develop on boats that are rolled too tightly. Try to avoid winkles and try to fold the tubes.
What can I do to keep my boat as new as possible, and provide me with a lot of use over the years?
Maintenance on inflatable boats can be classified into 5 different areas. In order of importance they are: 1 Transportation, 2 Rigging, 3 Derigging, 4 Storage, 5 River Use.
TRANSPROTATION: When transporting a raft make sure that they are free of mud and sand, and that they are placed on top of the gear load, in such a way that other heavy objects can not rub holes in them. If necessary pad potential wear spots with soft objects to minimize wear problems. If transporting on an airline, it is a good idea to place the tubes in a bag or tarp so that the tarp or the bag takes the wear. Clear plastic sheeting, 6 mils thick (available at hardware and lumber stores) is excellent material for protecting boats from abrasion, but not from puncture. You will have no control over how your boat is loaded in an airplane.
RIGGING: Rig boats with straps not rope. Ropes have a small contact area on the surface of a raft, and can wear the coating off of a boat. Inspect frame parts for any sharp metal, fiberglass, or slag left as a result of the welding process. A rough surface on the bottom of a frame can rub a hole in a raft.
DERIGGING: BEFORE ARRIVAL AT THE TAKEOUT, INSTRUCT PASSENGERS ON DERIGGING ETIQUITE. Do not allow DRY STRAPS to be pulled through between tubes and frame. A dry strap can product enough friction to melt the coating off of the tubes. Wash as much of the mud and sand off of the tubes as possible. Always roll the boat on a tarp, Paco Pads, or deck boards and tables. Dirt can get into valves and make them malfunction. Scan the area for sharp vegetation like goat head thorns and cactus. Cracks can develop on boats that are rolled too tightly. Try to avoid winkles and try to fold the tubes.
STORAGE: When storing a boat, wash it off with soap and water to remove any trace of food particles that may be left from the summer's use. Hungry rodents will eat flavored PVC. If rodents are a problem, in the storage area, use Dcon or other rodent deterrent. We recommend the use of 303 protectant. This product acts like sunscreen for your boat. It reduces dry abrasion wear, and helps boats slide over rocks in the river easier. Use caution walking on the top of tubes. They can be very slick after applying protectant. NEVER USE ARMORALL OR A SILICONE BASE PROTECTANT. Keep boats covered to protect them from the UV rays of the sun. STORE IN A COOL DRY PLACE. Never store a boat in a hot attic. Warm up a boat before inflating it if the temperature is below 0 degrees F.
RIVER USE: During river use, avoid parking in places where wave action causes wear on rocks. Be aware of water level changes due to dam fluctuations. Inspect the area where you are parked before pushing off to avoid damage from sharp rocks. It is advisable to pull a boat up on shore to minimize the wear on the bottom due to the rocking action on the sand and rocks. Like bicycle tires, small tubes need more pressure than large tubes. Stiff tubes perform better. Inflatable floors and tubes can take more abuse if they are not inflated rock hard. Discuss this issue with others to determine how much pressure you should use in a given situation.
WARNING: White water activities are inherently dangerous. Before using any boat or cataraft in white water or moving river, get proper training in the type of craft you will be using. And for the river you will be boating. Always wear an approved personal flotation device while on the water.
FOR ANSWERS TO ANY OTHER QUESTIONS ABOUT OUR PRODUCTS CALL
1-800-742-1904
The frame is held in place with straps that wrap around the tubes. What keeps the tubes from rotating?
There is a 2 grommet strips that lies outboard of center line on the tubes. Place the strap for the foot bar through one of those grommets, and then snug the grommet strip up tight to the cam buckle fefore final inflation. This will keep the tubes from rotating. Please look at our photo gallery under FAT PACK CATS for descriptions pictures and drawings of how this is done.
Didn’t find the anwser answer you were looking for? Send us an email or give us a call, 1-800-742-1904.