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Cutthroat FAQ

How much weight can the seat support?
300lbs or more

How much weight can the floors support? There are a couple of mentions about being able to stand.
It is definitely strong enough to stand on. 300-LB people will not break them.

What are the approximate height levels at which one sits on/in these two boats?
Cutthroat is approximately 2-3 inches below the top of the tubes because the mesh deflects

What's the center of gravity for both boats?
Depends on how high you load gear, but it is never so bad that it is a problem. This is because it is so easy to put heavy gear between the tubes. Naturally the heavier stuff goes to the bottom.

How would you describe the handing characteristics between the one and two person models?
One person will spin and maneuver easier than the two-person model. That of course has some to do with the gear load. In the two-person model it is possible to load the boat with more gear and people towards the ends. This increases the swing weight and makes the boat less maneuverable due to the concept of conservation of angular momentum. More draft on a cataraft also makes them track very well, and as a result makes them harder to spin. On the otherhand, there is never a weight load as a result of water in the boat being carried through a rapid (as there is in a self-bailer) and so the boat is more maneuverable where you need it, namely the middle of the rapids.

I saw a nice picture of a red Cutthroat in the March/April issue of Paddler magazine. Is this a new color option?
Some time around Mid Summer of 2001 our color choices for all boats will be Grey, Blue, and Red, and all of these colors will be 35 oz fabric. The 35 oz fabric has 30% more rip strength, and we will be able to offer three colors of all of our boats. Aproximately 50% of our boats will be blue, 25% red, and 25% grey.

If I purchased a 2 person Cutthroat, which size of your gear bags would be most suitable as accessories?
Medium outfitter bags. Of course you will get a boat bag that you can use as a gear bag too.

I get the feeling that one sits much closer to the water line in the Cutthroat, but I'm not sure just how much. Maybe 16'' or so? I'm used to sitting about 2 feet or so off the bottom in our rafts. There is a page on your site that provides frame assembly.
Please go to the photo gallery in our web site, scroll down through the Cutthroat picture links untill you get to the place where the assembly drawing is. There is also a link to the written instructions.

In this page you raise a caution about "frame deflection" and the possibility of it occurring during normal use. How much of a concern might this be with the weight of a large body (me) on the 2-person model?
We addressed this problem with the addition of the spreader bars as an addition to the frame for the 2001 season. It is not a big issue unless you are hauling out a moose or something like that. Still it is a good idea to place the strap close to the gear or people load so frame deflection does not cause any problem. Extra Spreader Bars are available if needed. They add weight to the boat, but they also add strength.

What is the weight for frames that come on the Cutthroat 2?
35 lb. for the frame by itself.

Can the cutthroat use larger tubes, or come with a wider frame?
We used 19 inch diameter tubes on the cutthroat 1 frame. The only change we made was to use 7 1/2 ft oars. If you want to purchase a "SUPER SIZED CUTTHROAT" There would be a production delay because this is not a standard item. It would also cost $70.00 extra.

To make the frame wider, one could cut all the cross members and then sleeve these cross members with Top Fence Rail Tubing. It is 1 3/8 OD and has a .065 wall thickness. If this is done we must know what the new width at the bottom of the frame is so we can make new seat and floor pieces. We would wish to correspond with anyone considering doing this before they cut. If the frame is made larger in this fashion, it may be advisable to purchase extra spreader bars that can be used as a brace between the top spreader bar, and the bottom extension tubes. The wider the frame, and the larger the tubes, the more weight that can be phisically placed in the boat. With this system of cross bars, and sleeved parts, there is unlimited capacity to experiment. We welcome this experimentation. We also question the validity of the experimentation. After I have run a Cutthroat for a number of trips, the issue of stability is not as important as I once thought it was. Gear capacity, on the other hand, may be a larger issue.

Please note in our Photo Gallery there is a picture of a 2 person frame on a set of 13 ft 19 inch diameter tubes. The 13 ft tubes are 1 ft shorter than normal, and are 3 inches larger in diameter than usual. In this boat there is a 120 qt cooler full of Ice, 12 gal of water, a porta potty, a food box (16 x 12 x 18 inches deep) large pump, repair kit, two paco pads, and an ice cream maker (hand crank not electric, we did not have room for the car battery). If that is not enough room, you may wish to make the boat wider.

I am having difficulty keeping the oars from hitting my knees. Any Suggestions?
Yes I have many. First of all I find it most comfortable and usefull if there is no floor directly below my feet. I like to have a floor stick out from unter the seat in the cockpit area about 10 inches. However, it is more comfortable to be able to have the heals of your feet below the level of the mesh floor. I also find it most convenient for the lower spreader bar or the front cross bar used as a foot brace. If the balls of your feet are on the this bar, then the heals of your feet will be below the mesh floor. This will allow you to be able to straighten out your legs, and get your knees down and out of the way of the oar handles. It is also much easier on the back (especially when using the back rest pilow) when the heals are in this low position.

Can I take my cutthroat in the box to the put in and rig it there?
You could do that, but you are going to end up cursing yourself for not experimenting with it the night before.

Almost without exception, those customers who have had a dealer set up the frame for them before using it have changed the setup. The sales personell may or may not have set up the frame before, and may or may not have used one. Most likely they have not. Therefore with all the different setups that can be used to suit different individuals, it would not be a good idea to let someone else set it up for you. I serioulsy recomend that the frame be set up before a trip on the front lawn so you can get a good visual idea of load balance, people balance, and where the oars should be in relation to the seat. Do this before you shove off into the water. If the boat is a bit back or front heavy you will be able to adjust the next day or on the next trip.

How important is load balance on this little boat?
Load ballance is very important. If you are taking no cargo, I recomend that the person or the center of gravity be slightly forward of center. Many people prefer to row from the front. I actually prefer to row from the back. However load balance is much more important than where you are rowing from. Try to balance the center of the load to the center or slightly forward on the boat. Here is a philosophy that I would like to share. If the center of the load is in front of your face, then maneuvering becomes much easier than if the center is behind your head. People are not accustom to thinking with their awarness behind the head. All of the senses are facing forward, and the brain is hard wired that way. Why make it work so hard.

I have had trouble rigging the mesh floors in place, and when I got them there the first time I did not like it, and it was a struggle getting them back off. Any suggestions?
Yes the floors are tight. they can get even tighter when the bottom spreader bar is put in place. I have asked customers if they think they should be looser, and they say that it was definitely a hassle to put them there, but they would not want them any looser. What I recomend is that customers rig the frame for the first time on the front lawn. just slip the bolts into the holes, and do not put the bottom spreader or the floors on. Next visualize where the gear and people loads are going to be. Then visualize where you want the floors to be. (Remember, if you can get your heals below the level of the floor in the front you will have more oar clearance, and the seat will be very comfortable.) After all that is done, place some dish soap on the extension bars to help the floor slide in place. you may also use straps, and a wiggling motion to pull the floors in to place. Now you may tighten all of the bolts.

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